Sunday, July 31, 2005
A sight I never dreamed
Today I saw something I never thought I would. My pink umbrella hanging from the branch of a palm tree.
It's very rainy here today, the remnants of a typhoon from the Pacific. The Trieus dried the umbrella out for me! They are very kind hosts, making sure I am comfortable and well fed.
My homestay has been a fantastic experience. I really get to see how the Vietnamese live. The Trieus are very middle class, yet here that means no hot water, a small refrigirator and a small 2 burner stove to work with. (There is also a small stove just outside the house.) They have a washing machine but no dryer, you hang the clothes up to dry. Everybody over here drinks water from bottles or large coolers. In winter, there is no heating and temps get down into the 40s or even 30s, so people wear sweaters and coats and sleep under heavy blankets.
Food preparation can be very labor intensive. Take the preparation of one of my favorites, jackfruit.
Mrs. Trieu uses a big meat clever for food preparation. It scares me a little!. The Trieus have a small garden outside the city where they grow fruits such as bananas and jackfruit.
Jackfruit is called qua meet in Vietnamese. It grows on a palmlike tree. You have to climb the trunk and chop the large round fruits down. Jackfruit is a green, stubbly, basketball sized or larger fruit.
Mrs. Trieu chops the fruit in half, then into quarters. The inside is a plush landscape of large oval seeds and white fruit. Pieces are sectioned off and then the outer husk and seeds are removed. The fruit is fibery, and looks like pineapple. It's not really juicy, it's as if the water has been packed and sorted inside. The seeds can be cooked and eaten, they taste like sunflower seeds.
The process of extraction reminds me of poetry! There is an opening up. A revealation of what's inside. A carving away of husks and now unnecessary protective layers. Removal of seeds for future use. Finally, the sweet beautiful taste!
It's very rainy here today, the remnants of a typhoon from the Pacific. The Trieus dried the umbrella out for me! They are very kind hosts, making sure I am comfortable and well fed.
My homestay has been a fantastic experience. I really get to see how the Vietnamese live. The Trieus are very middle class, yet here that means no hot water, a small refrigirator and a small 2 burner stove to work with. (There is also a small stove just outside the house.) They have a washing machine but no dryer, you hang the clothes up to dry. Everybody over here drinks water from bottles or large coolers. In winter, there is no heating and temps get down into the 40s or even 30s, so people wear sweaters and coats and sleep under heavy blankets.
Food preparation can be very labor intensive. Take the preparation of one of my favorites, jackfruit.
Mrs. Trieu uses a big meat clever for food preparation. It scares me a little!. The Trieus have a small garden outside the city where they grow fruits such as bananas and jackfruit.
Jackfruit is called qua meet in Vietnamese. It grows on a palmlike tree. You have to climb the trunk and chop the large round fruits down. Jackfruit is a green, stubbly, basketball sized or larger fruit.
Mrs. Trieu chops the fruit in half, then into quarters. The inside is a plush landscape of large oval seeds and white fruit. Pieces are sectioned off and then the outer husk and seeds are removed. The fruit is fibery, and looks like pineapple. It's not really juicy, it's as if the water has been packed and sorted inside. The seeds can be cooked and eaten, they taste like sunflower seeds.
The process of extraction reminds me of poetry! There is an opening up. A revealation of what's inside. A carving away of husks and now unnecessary protective layers. Removal of seeds for future use. Finally, the sweet beautiful taste!
Saturday, July 30, 2005
Phung Khoang, my neighborhood
My neighborhood is Phung Khoang, which is actually a suburb of Ha Noi. This is no strip malls and model homes, 'burb, though. It is more like Cudahy gone Asian. A winding maze of narrow streets, mom and pop shops, and the occasional factory. Phung Khoang used to be a farming village, and there are a few rice paddies left, still farmed by the local people. But with the economic growth of Ha Noi in recent years, urban sprawl has come to our little corner of the country.
Farther west, high rises still under construction dominate the skyline. New buildings grow in Ha Noi like saplings. In fact, when I look out from Morning Star, one of the schools I work at, you can't really tell you're in Asia. The high rises married to cranes look more like the scenes I saw in Dublin!
In my particular neighborhood, however, it is very Vietnamese. I dodge the speeding Xe May (motobikes) on my way to this internet cafe. Women step lightly, carrying their heavy loads of fruits and vegetables on the way to market. Fresh meat is sold every morning from open air stalls.
We have a beautiful Catholic church right down the street. Many evenings I hear the music and hymns wafting to my rooftop. Every service is packed. Joy leaks through the walls.
Farther down Phung Khoang street is a Buddhist temple. I stopped there this morning and I didn't want to leave. It is bordered on one side with a small pond leading to an island with a shrine to Quanh Thanh (Kwan Yin). Through the other gate is the main altar with two side altars. The artwork is breathtaking.
in the pond, green bonnets of lotus guard
the pink blossoms
fish breath bracelets
onto the water
fruit drops trees
it cannot wait for the harvest!
Farther west, high rises still under construction dominate the skyline. New buildings grow in Ha Noi like saplings. In fact, when I look out from Morning Star, one of the schools I work at, you can't really tell you're in Asia. The high rises married to cranes look more like the scenes I saw in Dublin!
In my particular neighborhood, however, it is very Vietnamese. I dodge the speeding Xe May (motobikes) on my way to this internet cafe. Women step lightly, carrying their heavy loads of fruits and vegetables on the way to market. Fresh meat is sold every morning from open air stalls.
We have a beautiful Catholic church right down the street. Many evenings I hear the music and hymns wafting to my rooftop. Every service is packed. Joy leaks through the walls.
Farther down Phung Khoang street is a Buddhist temple. I stopped there this morning and I didn't want to leave. It is bordered on one side with a small pond leading to an island with a shrine to Quanh Thanh (Kwan Yin). Through the other gate is the main altar with two side altars. The artwork is breathtaking.
Here saints flower from the branches
in the pond, green bonnets of lotus guard
the pink blossoms
fish breath bracelets
onto the water
fruit drops trees
it cannot wait for the harvest!
Friday, July 29, 2005
White Flower
There is a particular kind of small white flower that grows over here called Hoa Nhai. It is very fragrant and unforgettable. Like one of the kids I was working with today, the youngest member of our class, Naung. Naung is four years old but she has already learned her numbers and songs. Today as I arrived, she booted one of the older kids from the swing in the courtyard and had me swing with her. When the gong rang, we went up to class. She is too young to practice her penmanship, so Ms. Canh gave her a coloring book. Naung cued me on a flower to color and I lightly filled it in. Then she would accentuate the drawing with deeper, bolder lines.
Phu, the boy with the biting problems, has really gotten attached to the harmonica. He is starting to learn how to say "Nashville!" He may have to leave school soon, the administration believes he is too much to handle. Phu cries whenever he is separated from the harmonica. It is staying in Viet Nam with him, a little bit of Tennessee far across the sea!
Phu, the boy with the biting problems, has really gotten attached to the harmonica. He is starting to learn how to say "Nashville!" He may have to leave school soon, the administration believes he is too much to handle. Phu cries whenever he is separated from the harmonica. It is staying in Viet Nam with him, a little bit of Tennessee far across the sea!
Thursday, July 28, 2005
Ha Noi, a Familiar Dragon
A typical day starts at 6 a.m. I am a late riser, most Vietnamese get up at 5 a.m. Washing up and getting prepared includes smearing on sunscreen to my arms and neck. I use children's sunblock because it has a higher spf.
Breakfast usually consists of:
Breakfast usually consists of:
- Orange juice (nguoc cam)
- Coffee (ca phe)--the coffee is interesting--it is brewed in individual filters which drip into a glass. Very strong, but very good!
- Pho Bo is the main dish, a beef noodle soup.
- Lotus bean soup, a staple Mrs. Trieu gives me everyday. It is somewhat bland and reminds me of oatmeal.
- Fruit--watermelon or maybe dragon fruit, a cool white fruit that grows in South Vietnam. this has grown to be a favorite!
By 7:30 a.m. I am off by Xe Om to the Peace Village. Mr. Quyet is my regular Xe Om driver hired by the Trieus. I pay him weekly for a discounted rate.
At Peace Village I am usually enthusiastically greeted by my "boyfriend" Minh. Ushering me into a small rec room, we watch a children's show with the other kids. The show is "live action" and sort of a version of the power rangers, only one of the main characters has the head of an elephant.
Class starts promptly at 8 with the banging of a large wooden gong in the courtyard. Ms. Canh usually warms the kids up with music, a tape of various songs, including "Ali Baba" and the Stephen Foster classic "O Susanna." Then I give English lessons--body parts, counting, animals or colors. All the fans are going but it is still hot work! This can be followed by writing exercises for the children, a sort of penmanship exercise in which the kids practice letters, with the more advanced students writing words or phrases. During this time frame I try to keep the ones who can't write amused. Tai, for example is Autistic and try to show books or stuffed animals to him. Minh sometimes brings in a car magazine a soldier gave to him and he will point at a photo and I will repeat its name either in English or Vietnamese. This is followed by much of the "thumbs up" sign.
After writing, the children sing in Vietnamese and I try to follow as best I can. Sometimes Ms. Canh has me lead the class and this leads to some interesting improv! Then it is time to play with blocks. The kids usually want me to review their designs! Finally we end the morning with singing the alphabet song (English) or as a treat, Bowling!
I go home for lunch. Ang. Quyet picks me up with the Xe Om. My lunch usually consists of:
- white soda
- rice (com)
- hard boiled eggs
- a Vietnamese vegetable that resembles spinach
- meat, pork or fish (ca)
- fruit, dragonfruit or watermelon
After lunch I follow Vietnamese custom and shower and take a short rest. Lunch break here is usually two hours.
At 1:45 p.m. Ang Quyet picks me up by Xe Om and its off to Morning Star. When I arrive the kids are waking up from their naps. I play with them and after her bath, I massage Mee's limbs. Mee is a delightful little six year old with cerebral palsy. She is paralyzed from the waist down and has difficulty controlling her arms. The Navajo message oil seems to make her limbs less rigid.
Morning Star is always a tough assignment. The atmosphere is a lot less controlled than Peace Village, which is more like a classroom. This is more like a free for all! A girl named Nuop usually sits on my lap. She's no dainty Asian lass either, she is a heavy set 10 year old weighing at least 100 lbs. You have to dodge her head butts! This is a way she has of showing affection and getting attention!
I have to take a lot of precautions at Morning Star. I can't wear any pins because the curious kids will try to pull them off. I can't pull back my hair because the kids will rip out the bands, and this really hurts! Despite these precautions, I usually end up getting hit or poked somewhere. Luckily most of the kids are small and can't do too much serious damage. But the highlight is always seeing Mee. She has a big smile on her face and doesn't give up trying to do simple things like putting pegs into a hole. Mee can't hold things very well so this is always a struggle!
At 4 p.m. after two exhausting hours I am Xe omed home by Ang Quyet. I rest and then go here, to the Internet shop. If I have energy, I try to get photocopies of coloring books for the next day. Then its back home for guitar practice and supper.
Supper usually consists of:
- Bia (Ha Noi beer a really good brand!)
- rice
- vegetables
- hard boiled eggs
- fish, chicken or pork
- fruit, dragonfruit with some slices of a type of hard Vietnamese pear or peach. Sometimes also small sweet bananas from the Trieus garden
- cha, green tea, rounds off the meal and helps relax me
I usually watch tv with the family for awhile. Game shows are very popular, the Vietnamese have versions of "Wheel," "Millionaire" and "The Price is Right." They also have their own "Vietnamese Idol" music show. Sometimes the Trieus will put on Cnn in English for me.
Finally, I retire up to bed, shower and read. I also try to study Vietnamese at this time. By 9 - 10 pm I am ready to turn in!
Wednesday, July 27, 2005
Happy Birthday
Today was our teacher, Ms. Canh's Birthday. Some of the parents gave her gifts and her boyfriend sent her a sparkliing bouquet of yellow roses. I got the kids to sing her a couple rousing rounds of "Happy Birthday." Our progress today was outstanding, many of the kids came out and recited the numbers, 1-10, in English, and we went through some very basic addition and subtraction today.
The highlight of the day from the kids standpoint was the photos I brought in. I took photos of as many of them as I could and they spent the first part of the morning inspecting and chattering about the pics. Ms. Canh and I were able to give some of the photos to the parents who were around. The father of two of the girls was especially tickled with the photos of his daughters inspecting a book.
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I rounded off the day in Bill Clinton's footsteps, visiting a silk shop in Van Phuc village. They showed me the entire process of silk making, from harvesting the cocoons all the way up to finished product. At this shop they still use old fashioned "Jacquard" looms, which are actually driven by a punchcard that "tells" the loom how to form a pattern. Some folks consider this the forerunner of the modern computer.
The highlight of the day from the kids standpoint was the photos I brought in. I took photos of as many of them as I could and they spent the first part of the morning inspecting and chattering about the pics. Ms. Canh and I were able to give some of the photos to the parents who were around. The father of two of the girls was especially tickled with the photos of his daughters inspecting a book.
******************************************
I rounded off the day in Bill Clinton's footsteps, visiting a silk shop in Van Phuc village. They showed me the entire process of silk making, from harvesting the cocoons all the way up to finished product. At this shop they still use old fashioned "Jacquard" looms, which are actually driven by a punchcard that "tells" the loom how to form a pattern. Some folks consider this the forerunner of the modern computer.
Tuesday, July 26, 2005
The anatomy of sound
Trying to learn Vietnamese and teach English I've been forced to speak very slowly and break down words to syllables and even individual sounds. I've learned to appreciate:
- the generous cavern of O
- the sparkling riverbed of A
- the velvet stitch of B
- the snapping twig that is S
- the gentle hibernation of C
Monday, July 25, 2005
Traffic
Since I became ill with the intestinal parasite I have forgone the terrifying experience of riding a bike. The Trieus arranged for me to have a regular xe om driver come to take me to school everyday for a regular price. This is a relief. Not only were the narrow streets harrowing, and the traffic scary to cross, but I found myself constantly distracted by things on my path. "Oh, there's a pot of burning tar I have to avoid, or a basket with ducks and chickens, guarded by a German shepherd, or how does that guy balance a glass door and basket of rice on the back of a bicycle!"
Sunday, July 24, 2005
Buddhist Funeral
This has been a very rainy weekend in Ha Noi. Unfortunately the rain only provides temporary relief from the heat. This morning as I was going to mass at the Church of Three Martyrs, I witnessed another service from the Buddhist Faith. Down our narrow Phung Khoang street came a big procession. It was led by men with drums covered in plastic to protect them from the rain. They beat the drums very slowly and solemnly. Behind were men playing tiny brass horns. Each made a sound like an elephant trumpheting!
A priest dressed in a white gown with a white and gold headband tied a small gray knot around the center of a funerary box carried by two men. The box contained a picture of an elderly woman, flowers and burning incense. Behind that was the casket, and mourners, who after this brief stoppage continued on their way. It was hard to tell where the procession ended and normal traffic began.
A priest dressed in a white gown with a white and gold headband tied a small gray knot around the center of a funerary box carried by two men. The box contained a picture of an elderly woman, flowers and burning incense. Behind that was the casket, and mourners, who after this brief stoppage continued on their way. It was hard to tell where the procession ended and normal traffic began.
Saturday, July 23, 2005
Old Town
Old Town is so named because it is the oldest part of the city of Ha Noi. It is also a very "touristy" part of the town. There are many souvenir shops, posh hotels, western type restaurants in this area. I went there to purchase books, both for the children and for myself. Since I arrived I've got a craving for English reading materials even though I know I need to focus on my Vietnamese, which is progressing slowly. I also indulged another craving, I stopped in a little restaurant and bought myself an ice cream. Not as good as Robert's, but they make up for it in presentation, it comes with a vase filled with napkins for the sloppy tourist, a tiny spoon for savoring, and a decorative umbrella.
But in Old Town I am besieged! I bought two novels from a lady who diverted me away from a bigger bookstore. A guy on the streets was selling postcards and a guidebook, and I ended up buying "Lonely Planet--Viet Nam" from him. "Hey I waited for you outside the bookstore" was his pitch. One vendor followed me down the street, after I bought a t shirt, trying to sell me more. It was like the girls at the Hmong village, I felt hounded, wanted to throw them business, but ended up saying "No" a lot--and Yes--probably more than I should...
But in Old Town I am besieged! I bought two novels from a lady who diverted me away from a bigger bookstore. A guy on the streets was selling postcards and a guidebook, and I ended up buying "Lonely Planet--Viet Nam" from him. "Hey I waited for you outside the bookstore" was his pitch. One vendor followed me down the street, after I bought a t shirt, trying to sell me more. It was like the girls at the Hmong village, I felt hounded, wanted to throw them business, but ended up saying "No" a lot--and Yes--probably more than I should...
Friday, July 22, 2005
Junior Kaveman
Phu is one of our most difficult students at Peace Village. A little lad of about seven or eight, he is most famed lately for biting the other kids! In fact the last few weeks, we've had to watch him like a hawk, because he bit several students who retailiated by punching him.
Appropriately, I thought, Phu often wears a t shirt that reads "Junior Kaveman." He cannot recite like the other kids, takes little interest in coloring and seems to have difficulty seeing. Last week I tried giving him the harmonica, but all he did was bite it!
Today I tried again. The other kids were busy with their blocks and Phu was getting bored with a small toy he had brought to class. With some coaching from Ms. Canh and myself, he started playing! He squealed with delight as he discovered the music he could make from the harmonica. First he just was able to create short, feeble sounds, but soon he was playing like he belonged in Nashville, creating impromptu melodies and shouting "Song!" after each one.
A Vietnamese man from Switzerland came to our class with a videocamera. Phu gave a mini concert that the students applauded. Phu loved the camera and tried to get as much film time as he could! Next stop, Grand Old Opry!
Appropriately, I thought, Phu often wears a t shirt that reads "Junior Kaveman." He cannot recite like the other kids, takes little interest in coloring and seems to have difficulty seeing. Last week I tried giving him the harmonica, but all he did was bite it!
Today I tried again. The other kids were busy with their blocks and Phu was getting bored with a small toy he had brought to class. With some coaching from Ms. Canh and myself, he started playing! He squealed with delight as he discovered the music he could make from the harmonica. First he just was able to create short, feeble sounds, but soon he was playing like he belonged in Nashville, creating impromptu melodies and shouting "Song!" after each one.
A Vietnamese man from Switzerland came to our class with a videocamera. Phu gave a mini concert that the students applauded. Phu loved the camera and tried to get as much film time as he could! Next stop, Grand Old Opry!
Wednesday, July 20, 2005
Small Flowers
Today was an extremely hot day here in Ha Noi. Ms. Canh, myself and the kids were all in the doldrums because of the heat. Ms. Canh had one of the students give me some small, white flowers. These have such a beautiful fragrance, it help liven me up as I went through the drill with the kids-- body parts: arm, hand, foot, leg, stomach, nose, eye, ear, mouth, hair. Then we had a visitor, who is also a travel to teach volunteer. Linden is originally from Wales but lives in Italy. (His wife is Italian.) He brought a lot of different materials including notebooks and colored pens. Linden helped out, as we went over counting, and ABCs with the children and he put a spark into them.
Linden is just finishing up his stint with volunteering and wished he could've made it to Peace Village sooner. He really enjoyed working with the kids and recognized at once there need for individual help. I feel honored to have worked at this school all my time here, as the kids here truly need as much help as can be mustered. Some volunteer programs actually work with kids who are rathered priviledged. Many of our kids have difficulty walking, many have developmental disabilities. But most of the kids try very hard to learn and overcome their circumstances. The ones who don't "try" are kids who are difficult to reach usually autistic who lives in their own world of fear or imagination.
Linden is just finishing up his stint with volunteering and wished he could've made it to Peace Village sooner. He really enjoyed working with the kids and recognized at once there need for individual help. I feel honored to have worked at this school all my time here, as the kids here truly need as much help as can be mustered. Some volunteer programs actually work with kids who are rathered priviledged. Many of our kids have difficulty walking, many have developmental disabilities. But most of the kids try very hard to learn and overcome their circumstances. The ones who don't "try" are kids who are difficult to reach usually autistic who lives in their own world of fear or imagination.
Tuesday, July 19, 2005
My Star Pupils
My star pupils are two sisters named Ha and Hang. Two bright little girls, they are always anxious to look through the books I bring and often beckon me to their desk where we both practice our Vietnamese pronunciations. Hang is the oldest of the sisters. She is about 11 years old and has difficulty walking as her knees are bent permanently at a 45 degree angle. But she always has a bright smile and delights in showing me her projects, calligraphy practice and building computers and other structures out of legos. One of her favorite constructions is a house for her toy mouse, she will open the roof and show me him cooling off inside!
Ha is younger, about six or seven. She is especially interested in the books I bring. Today she spent the first half hour scouring a book about the jungle with a small magnifying glass, looking for hidden snakes, tigers and other creatures. She oftentimes finds things I overlook!
Ha is younger, about six or seven. She is especially interested in the books I bring. Today she spent the first half hour scouring a book about the jungle with a small magnifying glass, looking for hidden snakes, tigers and other creatures. She oftentimes finds things I overlook!
Monday, July 18, 2005
Guess who's coming to dinner?
I went to Ms. Canh's house for dinner. Ms. Canh is the teacher at Peace Village. She lives in our neighborhood, which is called Phuong Khoang. It turned into another adventure as I took the bike. My usual bike was locked and Mrs. Trieu couldn't find key so I took another bike which was way too small. I plodded along well behind Ms. Canh and her sister. At one point Thieu tried to take me on her bike but I was too tall and heavy. After a lot of stops and a fearful crossing at a busy intersection in which I retreated in front of a taxi, we finally made it to her house.
Ms. Canh lives with her mother, sister and several nephews and nieces. Her house is small compared to the Trieus, with an open courtyard. Each room circles the courtyard with a simple lock and curtain. I watched as a neighbor flew a quite from the roof and got it soaring. I played with her cat, a kitten with an abbreviated tail, something like a Manx cat. We went to her nephew's map and found "Hoa Ky" (the US). And Milwaukee! In Vietnamese it is Mi nowiki!
Ms. Canh lives with her mother, sister and several nephews and nieces. Her house is small compared to the Trieus, with an open courtyard. Each room circles the courtyard with a simple lock and curtain. I watched as a neighbor flew a quite from the roof and got it soaring. I played with her cat, a kitten with an abbreviated tail, something like a Manx cat. We went to her nephew's map and found "Hoa Ky" (the US). And Milwaukee! In Vietnamese it is Mi nowiki!
Saturday, July 16, 2005
My Vietnamese Boyfriend
What can I say about Minh? I don't think there is anything I can teach him. He already instinctively knows: HE IS SOMEBODY. As soon as I arrive at Peace Village, he is there to greet me and shake my hand. Usually he takes me over to the tv lounge, a small hallway between buildings with a television. The kids watch a live action children's program, something like "Power Rangers" with an Asian twist. When we get to class, he urges me into the seat next to him. Minh takes great joy in showing me a deck of cards and having me repeat "Jack" or "King." After many repetitions, I told him "You are the king." He laughed as he always does. Minh points at a picture on the wall and then himself, taking great happiness in the fact the picture is of him! He wants to communicate, however rudimentary that may be.
It may seem foolish, joy at very small things, redundant things, the trivial. But is it? Or is it more foolish to block out the joy, to put up an intellectual iron curtain, that dwells on problems, quagmires, entanglements of all kinds?
It may seem foolish, joy at very small things, redundant things, the trivial. But is it? Or is it more foolish to block out the joy, to put up an intellectual iron curtain, that dwells on problems, quagmires, entanglements of all kinds?
Friday, July 15, 2005
A Good Day
Today was a good day. A lot of sucesses. We gave Chantelle a little send off last night and she gave me lots of nice chotskis from Australia. She also gave me her bubble making machine and the kids had a great time with it. Even the new student who is very severely disabled was able to get some bubbles out, and others learned how to utilize the fans for mass production.
I brought in a book on the alphabet. A boy with Downs syndrome went through the alphabet with me--he wanted to know every word in English and even clued me in on the details of the pictures, the windows of houses, the lights, the swingset in a yard, and the parts of a fire truck. I didn't know all the parts so he gave me hints, pantomining the motion of a hose while making a whooshing sound! These kids have so much to teach me!
At Morning Star, I brought along my massage oil from the US that is a Navajo product made out of lavender and sage. There is a little girl there about 2 who is very disabled and she seemed to respond very favorably to the treatment. The therapist wrote down the name of the product which is called "Medicine of the People."
I went to the doctor for the final stage of treatment. It is some kind of bug that made its most famous appearance at the Chicago World's Fair of 1933. An intestinal parasite, it comes from bad food handling or contamination of drinking water, so maybe it was some bad ice from one of the small vendors around here. The only thing bad is the cap my Xe Om driver loaned me blew off during the ride to the doctors.
I brought in a book on the alphabet. A boy with Downs syndrome went through the alphabet with me--he wanted to know every word in English and even clued me in on the details of the pictures, the windows of houses, the lights, the swingset in a yard, and the parts of a fire truck. I didn't know all the parts so he gave me hints, pantomining the motion of a hose while making a whooshing sound! These kids have so much to teach me!
At Morning Star, I brought along my massage oil from the US that is a Navajo product made out of lavender and sage. There is a little girl there about 2 who is very disabled and she seemed to respond very favorably to the treatment. The therapist wrote down the name of the product which is called "Medicine of the People."
I went to the doctor for the final stage of treatment. It is some kind of bug that made its most famous appearance at the Chicago World's Fair of 1933. An intestinal parasite, it comes from bad food handling or contamination of drinking water, so maybe it was some bad ice from one of the small vendors around here. The only thing bad is the cap my Xe Om driver loaned me blew off during the ride to the doctors.
Thursday, July 14, 2005
Another favorite is building blocks, here a student starts his version of Ha Noi Towers.
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Wednesday, July 13, 2005
Colon-ial Rebellion
I bragged too soon.
This week I was hit by a nasty gastro intestinal infection. Without getting too graphic, I threw up at school and had a lot of problems at "the other end" as well. To make things worse, I parked the bike at school when the attack came and had to make it back via the two wheeler. I don't know how I made it. A guy offered to "tow me." (You hold onto the motorbikers arm while they take you in tow.) This was even scarier.
I returned to the doctors at the diplomatic compound and I am improving. The medical care for foreigners here is comparable to at home and fast and convenient. And a note for the folks back at MUCN. They hand out antibiotics like candy here. My family offered me some antibiotics but I explained I was allergic to sulfa drugs. You can get amoxycillin at any drug store.
This week I was hit by a nasty gastro intestinal infection. Without getting too graphic, I threw up at school and had a lot of problems at "the other end" as well. To make things worse, I parked the bike at school when the attack came and had to make it back via the two wheeler. I don't know how I made it. A guy offered to "tow me." (You hold onto the motorbikers arm while they take you in tow.) This was even scarier.
I returned to the doctors at the diplomatic compound and I am improving. The medical care for foreigners here is comparable to at home and fast and convenient. And a note for the folks back at MUCN. They hand out antibiotics like candy here. My family offered me some antibiotics but I explained I was allergic to sulfa drugs. You can get amoxycillin at any drug store.
Tuesday, July 12, 2005
Hanoi Hilton
Sunday night I had the pleasure of attending a concert at the Hilton Hanoi, right next to the opera house. The concert was to commemorate the tenth anniversary of the normalization of relations between Viet Nam and the USA. It was a great event, with musicians from the Vietnam opera company, the ballet, and traditional musicians all attending. Several well known singers in Ha Noi gave their rough n' ready renditions of classics such as Beautiful Dreamer and O Susanna. The most moving performances came as a group of blind musicians took the stage. They all play traditional Vietnamese instruments and knocked out some American tunes such as Swanee River and Amazing Grace with amazing aplomb. The event was attended by a standing room only crowd of mostly Vietnamese people who enjoyed every minute.
The US consul closed the evening by thanking everyone who came and giving the musicians bouquets of flowers. I left the Hanoi Hilton to the sound of Vietnamese musicians playing live jazz in the bar across the lobby.
The US consul closed the evening by thanking everyone who came and giving the musicians bouquets of flowers. I left the Hanoi Hilton to the sound of Vietnamese musicians playing live jazz in the bar across the lobby.
Sunday, July 10, 2005
Shangrilla with Souvenirs
Saturday I finally left the confines of Ha Noi. What an extraordinary day! The Trieu children took me to their hometown, Hoa Binh, a small city about 25 miles outside of Ha Noi. It is nestled in the mountains which surround the capital. Spectacular! How can I describe it? A boy in a red t-shirt shimmying up a pole in a middle of a rice paddy. Water oxen ambling along the side of the two lane highway. Mountains that look like jagged pieces of glass, covered with sharp layers of brown and black rock. Others that are more gentle, and curve to the horizon, covered with thick green trees that hug their contours.
We went to visit a Hmong village that is located very close to the city Hoa Binh. As soon as I stepped out of the car, I was surrounded by three young girls and an elderly woman trying to sell me beautiful embroidery made by the neighboring Xao people. They pleaded with me to buy things, and wouldn't take no for an answer. Unfortunately, I was running out of cash and had yet to find an ATM that accepted my debit cards. Eventually when we walked far enough away, they awaited the next visitors.
We looked through the village and stopped at a house that is open to guests. The Hmong people in the house offered us rice wine and tea. The rice wine is very strong and I turned down their offer for an additional glass. The tea is a type of green tea common in Viet Nam. It is very bitter, but I drink it because the people here say it helps you deal with the heat.
Both the Trieus and I bought some items from the Hmong. I couldn't buy much because of the cash situation, but I did find some beautiful tapestries. When we returned to the car, the kids and the elderly lady were back. They think all foreigners are very rich. They showed me some Euros that a tourist had given them and eventually I was able to change them for a generous rate. One little girl kept following me and was absolutely begging me to buy an embroidered item for 30,000 VND dong (about $2). Unfortunately, at this time I only had about 50,000 dong, and I didn't know when I could access my cash. It was very difficult to look her in the eyes and just refuse. I know she was trying her best to make the sale. They are good salespeople, but their poverty is also very real.
After leaving the village we stopped for lunch at a local place that is a favorite of the elder Mr. Trieu. Mr. Trieu worked as a math teacher for many years in Hoa Binh, hence this is why it is the Trieu children's hometown. We had a meal of goat meat and fried pork. Some of the goat was tender, some was pretty tough. It was cooked with a breading. The meal also featured many types of herbs that are supposed to have medicinal properties.
After that it was off to visit Mrs. Trieu's aunt, who is married to a prominent artist. Her husband entusiatically showed me his gallery, which includes both oil paintings and sculptures. His work is very good, and includes both portraits and works based on Vietnamese legends. Also, he is a veteran of what they call here "The American War." He proudly showed me his medals from his ten years of army service, and didn't seem to hold any animosity even though I am an American.
We returned home in a driving rainstorm, the mountains were even more beautiful, tucked away in blankets of clouds. People didn't let the rain and lightning deter them, they were still pedaling away on bicycles and motorbikes, hauling a variety of items, firewood, metal cables, heaping bags of rice, chickens, alive and recently slaughtered, pigs--hogtied in a basket
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Just a word about the ATM situation. On Sunday I was able to find an ATM--at the Horison Hotel near the center of town. There are many ATMs here, but most only take cards for local banks. The one at the hotel is part of the system for ANZ bank, which is a big international bank. Even at this ATM, I was not able to get a large sum out at once, instead I had to use both debit cards for smaller amounts. Thus, I will get slugged with two fees from my banks at home. Something to keep in mind when you are travelling to Viet Nam.
We went to visit a Hmong village that is located very close to the city Hoa Binh. As soon as I stepped out of the car, I was surrounded by three young girls and an elderly woman trying to sell me beautiful embroidery made by the neighboring Xao people. They pleaded with me to buy things, and wouldn't take no for an answer. Unfortunately, I was running out of cash and had yet to find an ATM that accepted my debit cards. Eventually when we walked far enough away, they awaited the next visitors.
We looked through the village and stopped at a house that is open to guests. The Hmong people in the house offered us rice wine and tea. The rice wine is very strong and I turned down their offer for an additional glass. The tea is a type of green tea common in Viet Nam. It is very bitter, but I drink it because the people here say it helps you deal with the heat.
Both the Trieus and I bought some items from the Hmong. I couldn't buy much because of the cash situation, but I did find some beautiful tapestries. When we returned to the car, the kids and the elderly lady were back. They think all foreigners are very rich. They showed me some Euros that a tourist had given them and eventually I was able to change them for a generous rate. One little girl kept following me and was absolutely begging me to buy an embroidered item for 30,000 VND dong (about $2). Unfortunately, at this time I only had about 50,000 dong, and I didn't know when I could access my cash. It was very difficult to look her in the eyes and just refuse. I know she was trying her best to make the sale. They are good salespeople, but their poverty is also very real.
After leaving the village we stopped for lunch at a local place that is a favorite of the elder Mr. Trieu. Mr. Trieu worked as a math teacher for many years in Hoa Binh, hence this is why it is the Trieu children's hometown. We had a meal of goat meat and fried pork. Some of the goat was tender, some was pretty tough. It was cooked with a breading. The meal also featured many types of herbs that are supposed to have medicinal properties.
After that it was off to visit Mrs. Trieu's aunt, who is married to a prominent artist. Her husband entusiatically showed me his gallery, which includes both oil paintings and sculptures. His work is very good, and includes both portraits and works based on Vietnamese legends. Also, he is a veteran of what they call here "The American War." He proudly showed me his medals from his ten years of army service, and didn't seem to hold any animosity even though I am an American.
We returned home in a driving rainstorm, the mountains were even more beautiful, tucked away in blankets of clouds. People didn't let the rain and lightning deter them, they were still pedaling away on bicycles and motorbikes, hauling a variety of items, firewood, metal cables, heaping bags of rice, chickens, alive and recently slaughtered, pigs--hogtied in a basket
**********
Just a word about the ATM situation. On Sunday I was able to find an ATM--at the Horison Hotel near the center of town. There are many ATMs here, but most only take cards for local banks. The one at the hotel is part of the system for ANZ bank, which is a big international bank. Even at this ATM, I was not able to get a large sum out at once, instead I had to use both debit cards for smaller amounts. Thus, I will get slugged with two fees from my banks at home. Something to keep in mind when you are travelling to Viet Nam.
Saturday, July 09, 2005
An education student demonstrates playdoh sculpturing for a young man at Peace Village.
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Friday, July 08, 2005
Thursday, July 07, 2005
String Theory
One of the biggest hits with the kids so far has been bringing in a multicolored piece of string for the kids. I pointed to the colors and had them repeat after me in English, "Violet," "Yellow," "Red," etc. Then I cut off portions of the roll and made bracelets for them. They all wanted bracelets. Ms. Canh made a nice bracelet for me that I wear to school every day.
I have also started working part time at a school down the road called Morning Star. Unlike Peace Village, which is a boarding type school, Morning Star is a daycare center for young people with mental or physical disabilities. It is brand new and the director, Dr. Lam, a psychiatrist, is very pro active about getting the parents involved and training them in how to deal with the special needs of their children.
Peace Village parents tend to be very pro active as well. We had a new boy come to class today and his father and grandfather were there to make sure he was getting off to a good start. His mother was very sad to see him board, but the physical therapy at Peace Village should help, as he has both developmental disabilities and problems with motor control. Wei's mom is there every day and helps the staff out. Another student's sister is a regular and one little girl is carried in by her father every day.
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Brief personal note about my health. The finger is on the mend. My biggest problem is dealing with the heat. What I find most difficult is skin care, heat rashes are omnipresent. This is something that is not mentioned in most guide books with advice on going to tropical countries. They mention how to keep your insides in good order but not the "outsides." On the advice of one of the faculty at Marquette University College of Nursing http://www.mu.edu/nursing I am try to hunt up some corn starch. I would kill for a bottle of Gold Bond Powder! When I return to the States, I intend to write a section in the planning guide on skin care for my second job at the National Registration Center for Study Abroad, http://www.nrcsa.com
I have also started working part time at a school down the road called Morning Star. Unlike Peace Village, which is a boarding type school, Morning Star is a daycare center for young people with mental or physical disabilities. It is brand new and the director, Dr. Lam, a psychiatrist, is very pro active about getting the parents involved and training them in how to deal with the special needs of their children.
Peace Village parents tend to be very pro active as well. We had a new boy come to class today and his father and grandfather were there to make sure he was getting off to a good start. His mother was very sad to see him board, but the physical therapy at Peace Village should help, as he has both developmental disabilities and problems with motor control. Wei's mom is there every day and helps the staff out. Another student's sister is a regular and one little girl is carried in by her father every day.
*************
Brief personal note about my health. The finger is on the mend. My biggest problem is dealing with the heat. What I find most difficult is skin care, heat rashes are omnipresent. This is something that is not mentioned in most guide books with advice on going to tropical countries. They mention how to keep your insides in good order but not the "outsides." On the advice of one of the faculty at Marquette University College of Nursing http://www.mu.edu/nursing I am try to hunt up some corn starch. I would kill for a bottle of Gold Bond Powder! When I return to the States, I intend to write a section in the planning guide on skin care for my second job at the National Registration Center for Study Abroad, http://www.nrcsa.com
Wednesday, July 06, 2005
Temple of Literature
There is a temple in the middle of Ha Noi dedicated to literature. Flanking it are giant marble sculptures of turtles, a symbol of long life here. http://www.terragalleria.com/images/vietnam/viet8214.jpeg These stone turtles bear the names of all the people who earned a doctorate at the Royal University. The university was housed next door.
I can't help but wonder how the children I work with fit in. They could never be inscribed on a stone turtle, yet perhaps they ride its back. One boy points at himself and then the outside world. I do the same thing and he laughs with joy. He is a part of the world, and I think he senses it even though he cannot abstract that into language. A doctor I spoke to said that people here have a hard time understanding developmental disabilities. They confuse it with mental illness. I think we all need to learn that the path to wisdom does not necessarily involve scholarship.
I can't help but wonder how the children I work with fit in. They could never be inscribed on a stone turtle, yet perhaps they ride its back. One boy points at himself and then the outside world. I do the same thing and he laughs with joy. He is a part of the world, and I think he senses it even though he cannot abstract that into language. A doctor I spoke to said that people here have a hard time understanding developmental disabilities. They confuse it with mental illness. I think we all need to learn that the path to wisdom does not necessarily involve scholarship.
Tuesday, July 05, 2005
Camelot East
Went to the water puppet show on Saturday. Fantastic! One of the legend is centered around a lake in Ha Noi called Quan Kim. This is an Arthurian type legend about a king with a magical sword who uses the weapon to fight off invaders. After defeating the enemy, he relinquishes the sword to a magic turtle who lives in the Lake.
Thus true leadership consists in giving back power to its source.
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Going home was extraordinary, too. Was unsure of the bus stop at my new homestay. I asked the conductor and there were titters at my pronunciation. Then I showed the address to a young man sitting next to me. He not only showed me where to get off but escorted me home!
This was scary because I feared etting robbed. What if he led me to a dark alley? Enveloped in a heavy darkness, wrapped in warm sweat and cold anxiety, I was wary. But it ended with him finding my home and enjoying Litchi an tea with my family.
Thus true leadership consists in giving back power to its source.
*****************
Going home was extraordinary, too. Was unsure of the bus stop at my new homestay. I asked the conductor and there were titters at my pronunciation. Then I showed the address to a young man sitting next to me. He not only showed me where to get off but escorted me home!
This was scary because I feared etting robbed. What if he led me to a dark alley? Enveloped in a heavy darkness, wrapped in warm sweat and cold anxiety, I was wary. But it ended with him finding my home and enjoying Litchi an tea with my family.
Monday, July 04, 2005
Careening
Saturday I moved in with my homestay family, the Trieus. They are great! The first thing I did here was try to learn my new route to Peace Village. It is closer by bike now, so Ha Trieu and Ms. Nuyen led me by motorbike along the route. It's only about a mile, but I have not ridden a bike in seven years. The first turn off a narrow street is onto a path with two ponds. I was afraid I would end up doing a dive into these tiny lakes.
But even scarier was the traffic. In Vietnam, red lights are ignored and everyone has the right of way all the time!. I wobbled along the narrow streets, trying to avoid hitting or being hit by other bicyclists, pedestrians, kids playing, hand carts, automobiles, cyclos, trucks and buses. I became stuck a few times, afraid to cross the road. When this happened I tried to dismount my bike, and my skirt tangled on the seat. Here I am, a sweaty American, hairy, bruised, legs exposed, dangling from a girls bike, annoying motorists with my hesitant ways!
But even scarier was the traffic. In Vietnam, red lights are ignored and everyone has the right of way all the time!. I wobbled along the narrow streets, trying to avoid hitting or being hit by other bicyclists, pedestrians, kids playing, hand carts, automobiles, cyclos, trucks and buses. I became stuck a few times, afraid to cross the road. When this happened I tried to dismount my bike, and my skirt tangled on the seat. Here I am, a sweaty American, hairy, bruised, legs exposed, dangling from a girls bike, annoying motorists with my hesitant ways!
Sunday, July 03, 2005
A hard day
Friday was an incredibly hard day. It started off badly, as I stepped off the bus I was blindsided by a bicycle. My leg got cut up and bruised. Luckily Chantelle was with me and had water to wash off the cut. When I arrived at school, the finger treatment continued. My finger became very blistered, and they had the doctor look at it! Ms. Canh wanted me to cut off the area, I wasn't sure. The doctor wanted me to have laser surgery on my hand. I wasn't too keen on that. After a long morning, Chantelle and I took the Xe Om home. The motorbike was cutting in between a bus and another vehicle. He skidded to a stop and lost his balance and we went tumbling. Luckily we both were all right although I was totally jittery from everything that had gone wrong. I went home and decided to take Ms. Canh's advice. I didn't want to have laser surgery in a foreign country with a doctor I couldn't communicate with. I cut it off and my finger started bleeding a lot. I gauzed it up and bandaged it. I sought out Mr. Hung, one of our program supervisors and he helped me get another motorbike to a medical clinic on Embassy Row. There I was treated by an Australian doctor who fixed up my finger just fine. On the way home, the motorbike driver got lost, he couldn't find my address and I could not find the paper I had shown him, I was just too burnt out and upset. He dropped me off near the American Embassy and I found my way to a bus stop and home. So ended my toughest day so far....
Friday, July 01, 2005
Finger soldered
Ms. Canh noticed the wart/callous on my finger. she and the nutrition students were determined to get rid of it. You take a plant called Fuego and wrap it around the area and apply burning incense. I spent most of the morning getting this treatment and reading English to Wei. He told me "endeavor" which translates into Vietnamese as try. Try to hold on. If anyone could tell me this it is Wei. The 18 year old has to endure being in a wheelchair in a wheelchair inaccesible country.
The treatment was hot and sometimes painful but I think they made progress.
The wart developed from playing guitar and spawned a "child" both on the first finger.
I burnt a hole in the desk when I left the incense to teach. They didn't seem to mind they were obsessed with the wart. They tried to use a needle to take edge off.
I felt like maybe I was neglecting teaching but maybe not--as the children looked on, I became one of them....
The treatment was hot and sometimes painful but I think they made progress.
The wart developed from playing guitar and spawned a "child" both on the first finger.
I burnt a hole in the desk when I left the incense to teach. They didn't seem to mind they were obsessed with the wart. They tried to use a needle to take edge off.
I felt like maybe I was neglecting teaching but maybe not--as the children looked on, I became one of them....
